Studies in Ancient Gold is a singular program that brings together rigorous research, hands-on studio practice, and close mentorship in a two-week intensive format.
This program is designed for individuals with existing experience in jewelry making, metalsmithing, or small-scale sculpture who want to deepen their scholarship and develop new work within a vibrant, stimulating community of fellow practitioners and accomplished faculty.
The program is built around a daily studio practice anchored in an art historical framework, combining archival research, investigative problem-solving, and the development of new models for making. Much of each day is spent in directed studio work centered on one or more focused areas of investigation, with close collaborative exchange between participants, a core team of faculty mentors, and visiting collaborators.
In addition to full access to the studio and the surrounding professional neighborhood, participants will conduct fieldwork at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and visit professional studios and other notable locations of interest.
The program is housed at JAI's facilities in Midtown Manhattan, situated within walking distance of the Diamond District and surrounded by historic jewelers and design studios. Participants benefit from daily immersion in one of the world's most dynamic jewelry and craft communities, an environment that fuels creative energy and raises professional standards.
Areas of Investigation:
All participants will be introduced to each Area of Investigation and will have the opportunity to pursue specific topics in greater depth based on their own experience, interests, and creative goals. Your educational path within the program will be shaped to align with where you are and where you want to go.
Investigation of 22k Gold and Silver Filigree:
Through experimentation and historical analysis, participants explore the tradition of gold and silver filigree. By constructing models in both techniques, students work with best-practice alloying recipes and gain practical knowledge of colloidal hard soldering and other soldering applications.
Highlights:
- Troubleshooting filigree challenges in real time
- Selecting the right alloys for your materials and goals
- Tool making and modification for precision work
Investigation of 22k Gold and Silver Granulation:
Research and implement both ancient and contemporary granulation methods. Discover why Castellani never uncovered the true secret of ancient granulation, and how you can apply those historical insights productively in your own studio practice.
Highlights:
- Understanding and working with eutectic points
- Selecting the most effective alloys
- Best practices for consistent, high-quality results
Bezel Settings for Cabochon, Rose Cut, and Faceted Stones:
Sound setting technique is essential for maximizing a stone's beauty and ensuring the long-term integrity of the setting. Both historical and contemporary approaches are taught with a strong emphasis on mechanics and precision.
Highlights:
- Making and adapting setting tools to fit your specific needs
- Exploring the essentials of light refraction beyond diamonds
- Mastering bezel construction theory and practice
Methodologies of Fine and Sterling Silver:
With particular attention to soldering research and the foundational skills of silversmithing, this area investigates fusing, soldering, construction, and finishing through multiple models.
Highlights:
- When to fuse versus when to solder
- Choosing the right alloys for the task
- Tool making and modification
Exploration of Handmade Jewelry in 22k Gold:
Through fieldwork at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and other institutions, participants explore why 22k gold is a uniquely ideal material for handmade work. Instruction covers alloying, milling, stone setting, soldering, and fusion in this cooperative and enduring metal.
Highlights:
- Understanding how material choice shapes outcomes
- Weighing casting versus hand fabrication and determining what is right for your work
- Exploring the recyclability of gold as both a practical and ethical consideration
Why Participate?
This program is fundamentally about reaching your creative potential and deepening your professional expertise. It covers materials and techniques that give participants a real advantage in school, in the field, and beyond. Getting into the market is not just about having a strong resume and portfolio; it is about having the right experiences and the skills that set you apart. During these two weeks, participants have the dedicated time to learn and truly master skills that are often impossible to develop fully within the constraints of a standard academic program.
Schedule:
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Morning Session: 11:00 am to 2:00 pm
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Lunch: 2:00 pm to 3:00 pm
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Afternoon Session: 3:00 pm to 6:00 pm
Tools and materials are not included in the program fee. A complete list of required tools and materials will be provided upon enrollment.
